GoS - design by Martin Key
In early 2024, GoS watchmaker Patrik Sjögren and Swedish fashion designer Martin Key met and realized that their shared passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail could lead to something extraordinary. This watch is the result of their collaboration, combining Martin Key’s design elements and color choices with the unique Damascus steel dials and design features of GoS. As with all GoS watches, it is machined, finished, and assembled by Patrik Sjögren in the GoS Atelier in Linköping, Sweden.
A significant hallmark of Martin Key’s work, the octagon, is featured prominently: “My hallmark, the octagon, has been with me since day one, making a powerful statement that entails a powerful commitment.” Martin Key incorporated this by designing a solid yet elegant index ring in 18k gold with a deep chamfered octagon. Large purple and black diamonds serve as hour markers, reflecting the color palette of Martin Key’s products: gold, purple, and black.
GoS, recognized as the original Damascus steel premium watch brand, introduced the first watches with pattern-welded steel details in 2008. The dials are now hand-forged by bladesmith artisan Conny Persson in his well-equipped smithy in Los, Hälsingland, Sweden. Conny has refined the GoS Damascus pattern, known as Wildflower, to be more symmetrical, matching the eight sides of the octagon index ring. Patrik Sjögren developed a new finishing technique to darken the dial while still showcasing its intricate pattern. Each dial is unique, but all watches share the same expression. Patrik also applied a new plating technique to the hands, making the high-gloss polished GoS arrowhead hands as dark as possible. The result is an extreme contrast between reflections and shadows, enhancing legibility on the dark dial, in a way painted watch dials can’t achieve. We call this “Phantom Black,” a first in the watch industry.
The caseback engraving features another Martin Key design element, the signature zipper: “This is a hallmark that symbolizes the paths we take in life, which can be as smooth and effortless as a well-functioning zipper but also met with obstacles and unexpected turns. Much like a zipper that may get stuck and need replacing, it mirrors life’s challenges and adventures, and the resilience required to move past them.”
The technical specifications of the watch are based on the second edition of the GoS Sarek collection, which Patrik worked on for two years. The updated Sarek is slightly smaller in diameter at 41.5mm, and despite the thicker new movement, its thickness remains nearly the same. Extensive refinement of existing design elements is evident, such as in the shortened and reshaped lugs to match the GoS crown.
La Joux Perret introduced a new automatic movement in 2021, which powers the second edition of Sarek. This movement features a 68-hour power reserve and 24 bearing jewels. The G101 movements are manufactured to GoS specifications, including an anthracite finish, and are equipped with a skeletonized and beveled rotor. Patrik applies a nano-ceramic coating to the rotor, adding another Martin Key’s color element, further embellished with a gold-finished GoS triskele emblem.
Specifications
- Case: 41.5mmx11mm (5ATM) lug-to-lug: 49.5mm
- Lug width: 21mm
- Glass: Domed sapphire glass with double-sided AR coating, extra hard on outside
- Movement: La Joux-Perret G101 made to GoS specification with anthrazite finish. The solid Tungsten rotor is skeletonized and feature a GoS triskele emblem in gold. Patrik has applied purple nano-ceramic coating to align the rotor with MK´s color scheme.
- Dial: Hand-forged Damascus steel by master Conny Persson in GoS wildflower pattern with eight beads. The dial is finished in multiple steps by Patrik in the GoS atelier with the final steps to achieve maximum darkness while keeping the legibility of the pattern - Phantom Black.
- Index ring/rehaut: The index ring is made from solid 18k gold – shaped and finished in the GoS atelier. The 12 diamonds (4 purple and 8 black) are set by a local goldsmith in Linköping.
- Hands: GoS spear shape in high gloss polished Black Rhodium plated finish applied by Patrik.
- Crown: GoS design in polished finish with bead-blasted grooves and hand-polished bevels. The 7.5mm crown features an integrated crown guard and has double gaskets.
- Case finishing: Stainless steel, designed with inspiration from Viking bracelets. All finishing done in the GoS atelier where the side of the case surface receives a vertical fine satinization for increased contrasts. The back and sides of the lugs are polished except for the top of the lugs that have a straight satinization. The deep black coating is industry-strength PVD applied by local experts at Ionbond, Linköping.
- Strap: Handcrafted and tapered 21-20 mm strap in Calf leather or optional premium Salmon leather with 24 ct gold, fitted with premium folding buckle with button lock and octagon engraving.
- Every watch engraved with “0X/04 ” to indicate the limited edition in addition to a serial number.
- Five year guarantee
- Delivered in an octagon box made of hardwood that has been treated to resemble black oak and features leather details from Martin Key.
The retail price is US$18,000 + applicable taxes.
The first 2024 edition is limited to only four pieces, with eight pieces annually offered thereafter, incorporating new updates as they are developed. These watches will be available exclusively from Martin Key’s boutique in Stockholm or the GoS Watches atelier in Linköping.
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